Daily Coffee News 2016 Summery of Issues in Specialty Coffee

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There have been many progressions in the industry recently, specifically the machinery game has picked up 10 fold with many new innovations finally after 50 years of little development, and a much more in-depth understand of what is happening at origin thanks to many of the importers changing the trend from ‘I am successful because of my secrets’ to ‘information is king’.

Here is a bunch of stories from DCN this year which highlights many topics which are now being talked about in global specialty coffee.

Many of these issues we understand well and find ways in our trade to address them, I often feel like Specialty coffee is catching up on acknowledging these issues.

Click link for article and stories

dailycoffeenews.com link

 

Clothed and Caffeinated with Coffee

coffee closeup

A piece on coffee’s physical structure being excellent for inhibiting odors.

http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1850124313/atlas-performance-professional-comes-to-socks

“Odor molecules (from your stinky feet) are largely made of carbon, and are strongly attracted to the carbonized coffee”

These coffee particles are put into socks and clothing to capture bad smells!

This is partly why coffee releases so much aroma, it’s like a sponge when you look close up.

Thanks to kickstarter again, go the masses

Arabica; From it’s origin to extinction

An interesting lecture from 2013 SCAA Symposium by Aaron Davis; a botanis.

Screen shot 2013-05-29 at 8.41.48 AM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=pr5Iis_J6-U#!

It is focused on the issue of arabica being a very small part of the wild coffee species in Africa, and due to climate change, why it is looking like it might be tough to continue current growing practices to produce arabica.

Of all the coffee grown outside of Africa, there is less than 1% of genetic variance; compared to the species growing in Ethiopia !!

Lack of genetic variance is partly why leaf rust is such a problem for the industry.

Water and coffee: Processing

To process green coffee to the stage ready for roasting, it needs to be fermented to remove all the mucilage from the bean. Mucilage is the sticky, fruity part which is between the skin and bean, it is a little like grape, but only a very thin layer between bean and skin.

Coffee is generally either processed ‘natural / sun dried’, or ‘washed’. For washed coffee, once the cherry has been picked from the tree, within 6 hours it needs to be pulped to remove the skin, and soaked in water to ferment. In that first 24 hours the mucilage is disolved, it then needs to be dried in the sun for between 5- 9 days to reduce moisture levels to between 10.5 – 11.5% which means it can safely sit for a year ready for roasting.

washed coffee ready for floaters to be removed

washed coffee ready for floaters to be removed

In countries where water is short, or for reasons which natural coffee is wanted, coffee is not water fermented, but dried in the sun in the cherry form. Once the cherry is picked from the tree, it is put straight onto raised beds to dry in the sun as a cherry, this may also take a week to dry.

Washed coffee is often dried on concrete patios, but natural coffee is usually dried on raised beds to allow air flow under beans.Image

Part of the water processing is floating the cherries in water, the good sink and the under / over ripe cherries, and sticks etc all float and are scooped off and discarded. This process removes a lot of defects, so washed coffee will inherently have a lower defect count then natural coffees, putting washed coffee in a higher quality level.

Once the coffee is washed, there is a lot of water which has all sorts of contaminants left in it from the coffee, which poison rivers, killing marine life due to changes in ph level etc.

 

Research and industry development has produced methods of cleaning the water which can be done at local processing plants with manageable installation costs. Small processing plants may be build by co-ops throughout the region of their farmers, to reduce work for farmers, give better control over quality through access to proper machinery, and to reduce their environmental impacts. These processing plants may have water cleaning facilities depending on the size.

Water treatment method used by PRODECOOP in Nicaragua:

3 steps are used here to process the water: physically, chemically and biologically.

PRODECOOP Esteli, Nicaragua 2009. Wet mill with water treatment plant under construction.

Physically: Once the coffee is washed it is removed from the water, and the water is put in tank 1 for a while to allow large particles to settle, the top of the water is then drained to tank 2 leaving the ‘scum’.  Water left in tank 1 evaporates under the clear roof , and the dry muck is scooped out and used as organic compost.

Water settling tank 1, with pipes to feed Calcium hydroxide.

Chemically: next Calcium hydroxide is used which further separate sediment from good water, and is separated again.

Biologically: finally the water is pumped to run down a rough ramp with jagged stones protruding, this agitates the water creating turbulence and mixing water with oxygen. The water is cycled over the ramp more than once to finish the cleaning, and ph levels are  acceptable, it is then reused or put back into river.

the treated water is pumped from tank 2 to run down the ramp

Pollution of rivers is a big problem in coffee producing areas, as many different coffee farmers spread for miles will be reusing the same river water as it runs down the mountain. Co-ops can play a key role in increasing production efficiencies and best practice as they hold a collective responsibility on behalf of locals, and have resources to build processing and water cleaning stations.

Another good reason to buy from co-ops.

Water and coffee: Water quality in brewing

Coffee as a drink, is mainly water, and the quality of water directly relates to the way we perceive flavours, this is important both in espresso and soft brewing.

The flavour of acidity in coffee is effected by the ph, and chemical make up of the water. High acid coffees can loose their acidic flavour because of water makeup, and espresso machines become scaled.

We all use industry standard filter kits on water for brewing, which are really just a starting point for treatment, but gets very expensive to go to next step.

lime scale build up

When you buy a Slayer, you only get a warranty when proper water treatment processing is done, in NZ this costs over $5000 to set up. This is the next step in filtration, but something which isn’t viable in a wholesale cafe market.

The new dual boiler espresso machines have flow restrictors with hot water running through them which scale up and block injectors quickly, causing regular problems in regions where water has a high TDS.

The water filters we use are Everpure 2CB-GW, which do the following:

  • Reduces fine dirt and particles
  • Carbon block filter polishes water for high quality beverage and food applications
  • Reduces chlorine, taste, odor, and other offensive contaminants
  • Reduces limescale build-up that can damage the machine

As you may know, even with these filter kits, lime scale does build up, and fast depending on your water content. So globally every espresso machine has this problem.

I wonder how water quality treatment in coffee will progress, will we see better filter kits at affordable prices, will we be running ‘bottled’ water through our espresso machines, or will we continue to need to de-scale espresso machines every year or so?

Water and coffee: the water footprint of coffee

Water plays an important role in coffee, making up most of the beverige, and there are a few big issues involved with coffee, starting at origin with growing, processing, and at the brewing stage with quality of water effecting flavours in different ways, and scaling up espresso machines..

What I wasn’t so aware of is, as I drink my V60 Harar, I am also unknowingly using 100’s of liters of their precious water!

water collection Africa

According to this study waterfootprint.org for every cup of coffee we drink, 140 liters of water is required to grow and produce it!! 99.66% of this water is for growing, with only 0.34% accounting for wet processing.

Origins like Harar, where rainfall is so scarse they don’t wash any coffee, this issue is particularly big, to think for each cup of coffee we drink, 140L of clean rain water went into coffee trees- and not to people!

When a product is exported there is resources used to produce it, ‘Virtual water’ is water used to grow a product which is then exported, depleting the origin of this resource and product.

We all consume water, The water levels on the planet will stay the same, but where it falls, how its used, and how polluted it is when we try to consume it is a different story.

This may sound a bit academic, but really we have a similer situation here in NZ with huge dairy production for milk powder export using mass water for irrigation etc, with water shortages are becoming more common. Seventy percent of New Zealand’s irrigated land is in Canterbury, where two big irrigated dairy farms can use more water than the whole city of Christchurch.

Estimates by the NZ Water Rights Trust state at least 500 litres of water is needed to produce a single litre of milk—possibly much more. Australia’s Commonwealth Scientific and Industrial Research Organisation puts the ‘water footprint’ of a dollar’s worth of milk at 1,470 litres.

Water stress is a reasonably now concept, it is when the annual water supplies drop below 1,700 cubic metres per person per year, and is occurring in many places these days when 50 years ago it was commonly believed clean water was an infinite resource.

Water Justice: as the research points out, when talking about water problems in coffee, there is a much bigger and separate topic than pollution of rivers through processing, or scale building up in espresso machines, as we are essentially exporting water out of coffee origins, at over 100L per cup of coffee.

As far as I know, small lot farmers who we buy from, the water used in growing the coffee is all rain fall. But for larger plantation, water irrigation for growing may be happening, perhaps mainly in robusta and commodity coffee, where farming is more extensive and mechanized.

What this means for coffee farmers, ‘virtual water export’ is obviously hard to quantify, this issue is common to all products, but has different effects with some many factors in different countries. But regardless it is a real issue which we play a role in.

What role can we play: perhaps part of our responsibility from the “developed world” is to promote, share and support the use of technology and its management.

This is happening through the co-op mechanism using farmers shared resources to build facilities for cleaning water. But it is still not common place among our co-ops, as many farmers have backyard micro wet mills.

So this is really quite a big picture problem, with no answer to how to change where rain falls, or where products are grow, but never the less, an interesting topic.